BELLOWS FALLS — Nothing says spring to me more than the beginning of trout fishing season in Vermont, and we're almost there: April 13, to be exact.
Once the ice melts and everything loosens up, it's time to get your license, clean the poles, and plot your next expedition, even if that expedition is only to the fish market.
As a child, my brothers and I roamed the streams that meandered through the forests surrounding our home in Spofford, fishing poles in hand, optimism high. Even if all we caught was one little fish for our day's efforts, Mom would cook it as reverently as if we had provided all the sustenance for the family supper, and nothing tasted better.
If there's an angler in your home, you know the delights of a freshly caught trout. When camping, there's nothing better than the fresh catch cooked simply over the campfire with just salt and pepper and a bit of fat.
More often, we end up cooking farm-raised trout from the fish market or grocery store - a good option, but more mild in flavor than wild.
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If you are not planning a trek to the wilderness, there are still many ways to transform trout into a memorable meal to boost its appeal.
This is where the herbs and aromatics come in, and we have many possibilities. This recipe uses tarragon, but you can also use fennel fronds, dill, parsley, fresh chives from the garden, or arugula from local greenhouses.
If you have a choice in the market, ask for a whole fish, head and tail on, for the most flavor as the fish cooks.
Ask the fishmonger how long the fish has been there and its source. The fish should look plump and moist; the eyes should be clear and not sunken into the head. Most importantly, you should not be able to detect off smells.
Whether your fish are fresh or farmed, you will need to wash them well, inside and out, and dry them completely before proceeding.
If you have horseradish root tucked away in the bottom of your crisper drawer, now is the time to take it out. You can also forage them in the wild in April if you know what you are looking for, or browse the local co-ops and health food stores. But in a pinch, a bottle of prepared horseradish in vinegar will do nicely; look for a local product if possible.
This is a really quick recipe - as long as you don't factor in the time catching the fish!
Pan-roasted trout with horseradish and tarragon
Wash and thoroughly dry:
¶2 whole trout, {1/2} lb. or so each
Sprinkle the cavity of each with:
¶Salt and pepper
¶1 tsp. prepared horseradish
Stuff inside each:
¶3 or 4 sprigs of tarragon or other herbs
¶3 or 4 thin slices of lemon
On a platter or baking sheet, combine:
¶1{1/2} cups finely ground cornmeal
¶2 tsp. Old Bay seasoning
¶1 tsp. salt
¶1 tsp. pepper
Mix this well, then gently press both sides of the stuffed fish in the cornmeal mixture to coat lightly. Hold it together with your fingers as you turn it over, pressing the fish down into the meal. It's way easier than it sounds.
Over medium/high, heat a large cast-iron frying pan or other large skillet. To the pan add:
¶2 Tbsp. olive oil
¶1 Tbsp. butter
¶2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed
Once the mixture is hot, add the fish gently to the fat. It should start to sizzle. Toss in any extra lemon slices to caramelize along with the fish.
Reduce the heat to medium and cook for about 7 minutes on the first side. Turn when the house starts to smell really good and the fish is browned on the down side - you will have to peek carefully here. Cook for another 5 minutes or so to finish the second side. A sharp knife in the thickest part will pierce the flesh easily.
Remove to a platter or individual plates, and squeeze a little more lemon over all.
This recipe is perfect served with spring green vegetables: fiddlehead ferns, asparagus, watercress, or any combination of these.